
I’ll be the first to admit that before this review I didn’t give a rip about white balancing products, despite the fact that I always kept a gray card in my backpack. I thought the process was too much of a hassle, and I wasn’t sure that it helped all that much. More importantly, because I shoot in the RAW image format (CR2 for Canon, NEF for Nikon), I thought that I didn’t need to bother with doing a proper white balance because it is so easy to correct the problem in Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop or a host of other software products. Does this thinking sound familiar to you? Read on to discover how I learned more about why I should care and how this device made the process not only easier but also kinda fun!
What Is White Balancing?
At a super high level, White Balancing is the act of making an image represent the colors appear as they did to your eyes at the time they were captured so that your image is a faithful reproduction from the perspective of color from what you actually saw. Of course it is really a lot more complex than just that, so white balancing (a.k.a., color balancing) is best described on Wikipedia here (or for the super geeks, even better here on CambridgeInColour.com), but my crude definition will suffice for the beginner who isn’t ready to digest all of that information.
Why do you use a 18% Gray to White Balance? Shouldn’t it be called Gray Balancing?
If you didn’t read the detailed articles on white balancing, then I’ll break this one down in layman's terms as well. The idea here is that the color between pure white and pure black is a middle gray, which has been defined as 18% gray. Camera systems and software has been set up that if you can know the proper value of this color then all of the others from white to black can be calculated to produce a properly white/color balanced image. To do this on Canon systems, we take a picture of a 18% gray card and then tell our camera to use this value, and then set the white balance mode of the camera to Custom (white balance) to use this image. The reason we do this is so we can capture the tones in the environment which will contaminate the colors, so having that reference point that we know with 100% certainty is 18% gray, then the camera or software can adjust to accurately render the rest of the colors (or so the theory goes, other factors such as multiple light sources, exposure, etc… can come into play as well).
Why White Balance?
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| Auto White Balance ISO 6400 RAW Image Unprocessed | Custom White Balance IS0 6400 RAW Image Unprocessed |
The reason why we white balance is so our images out of the camera will faithfully represent the colors that were present at the time we captured our image. This is critical for in-camera JPEG images because the white balance can not be corrected completely via post processing (although some argue that you can do a “good enough” job). It is also very useful for videos (both camcorders and now the ever popular DSLR’s like the Canon 5D Mark II which shoot video). For those scenarios, not having a proper white balance can seriously compromise your final result. Taking the time to do this up front gives you an image with faithful colors that you can then choose to apply your artistic intent to. This usually results in making color adjustments to the image which results in an image that no longer represents a faithful reproduction, but you as the artist have chosen the final colors rather than being forced to live with compromised color due to a strong tone that couldn’t easily be removed from your image due to improper white balancing. Of course, RAW images can always be corrected after the fact, but a few seconds at the time of capture will result in exponential time savings for all of the images which no longer need white balance corrections.
A Word about Color
Whenever you deal with color accuracy issues on a computer, you can’t begin to have valid results until you have calibrated your computer monitor. If you haven’t already, I highly recommend you purchase a calibration device that will help make sure that the white you see on your display is the same shade of white as anyone else who is using a calibrated monitor will see. If not, then your whites may be a little more yellow, your blacks may be a little washed out or show no detail. You may also get comments from people that your photos look a little dark or the colors from your post-processing look a little overdone. This happens because the default settings of nearly every monitor on the planet suck and are not suitable for photo editing, and sadly most of us don’t realize this until we print our images and think that the poor results are the fault of the print service when in reality our improperly calibrated display has caused us to ruin our photos by adjusting them to something that isn’t the true color represented in the image file. Here’s a list of devices that you can’t go wrong with (multi-monitor users will need to be careful to choose suitable products, as will Windows 7 and Apple OS X users for compat purposes):
- Pantone Huey – the cheapest (and what I use) – NOT for multi-mon
- Pantone Huey Pro – Supports multi-mon, but no other known benefits over the regular Huey
- X-Rite Eye-One Display LT
- X-Rite Eye-One Display 2
- X-Rite ColorMunki Photo, All-in-one Color Control Solution for Profiling Monitors, RGB & CMYK Printers and Digital Projectors, for Windows & Mac – great for those who will do their own printing, or use a digital projector as printers and projectors need calibration too
If you don’t own a display calibration device, then get one now as it should have been your first purchase after your camera. There is no software based solution that can reliably do accurate color management as they only allow you to calibrate color to your visual taste – not accurate reference values. A hardware based solution is essential gear for any serious image evaluation on a computer.
ExpoDisc – The Perfect White Balancing Solution

I’ll admit that when I first saw the ExpoDisc, I was a bit skeptical because I had used a gray card before and felt it was sufficient. I’m also pretty handy in Photoshop and Lightroom, so I thought I had both the before and after capture white balancing scenarios covered. I saw little that this device could offer me beyond existing very inexpensive solutions (heck, my lens cleaning cloth is 18% gray!), especially since the ExpoDisc was rather spendy. Photography is loaded with gadgets for suckers who are willing to buy anything to help make their photographs better, when simple, and inexpensive (or sometimes do-it-yourself) solutions already exist. This seemed like it might be one of those gadgets for suckers, so I went in to this review with a healthy dose of skepticism. I came away from it very surprised, and I now find myself bringing my ExpoDisc with me when the only other thing that is in my hand is the camera itself (you know, times when you are going downstairs to take a picture of your kid doing something cute where normally it’s just the camera and that’s it).
Video Demo
While reviewing a Canon 7D, I decided I’d try my hand at video and include a video of how I use the ExpoDisc. It’s cheesy, I know, but if you like the videos then let me know in the form of a comment to this review and I may include more in the future. Here’s a couple notes you should be aware of when watching this video:
- While it was shot in HD using a Canon 7D, I chose to export it as MPEG in NTSC DVD format from a free copy of Adobe Premiere Elements 4 I got with my computer so it would upload quickly. There’s nothing here that really requires high def, so don’t judge the 7D’s video abilities on this ISO 6400 video taken in a poorly lit (for video) room.
- In the video I wanted to include before and after pictures in-line, but due to time constraints (and the evil eye from my wife at 2:00 AM) I decided against including them directly in the video. See elsewhere in this article for some before/after images.
- The spotlight effect you see is from the software I used, and the noise was because I only had a limited tungsten light source at night so I had to shoot the video at ISO 6400. This video was white balanced with the ExpoDisc to create a much more pleasing result than what you would have seen without it.
- In the video I refer to using manual focus when taking the custom white balance exposure, but I’ve since started to just acquire focus using a half shutter button press (or AF-ON) and then placing the ExpoDisc in front of the lens to take the shot. I like this method easier as it keeps me from forgetting to turn auto focus back on the lens, so disasters don’t happen as then did in my testing.
- When capturing my white balance exposure image using the ExpoDisc, I use the Auto White Balance (AWB) mode on my camera. This worked well for me, but I also found sometimes that my corrected version didn’t seem just right so I’d take another shot and set the image to my custom white balance image. The problem is that my camera was already in custom white balance mode, so I took a new image using corrected settings which resulted in an image that was sometimes inaccurate. Lesson learned: ALWAYS pay attention to your white balance mode as well as your camera angle when taking your measurement shot. I will also use AWB when capturing my custom white balance images as it was harder for me to make a mistake that way, but ExpoImaging indicated that this shouldn’t be necessary.
A Word to Nikon Users
The procedure for acquiring white balance in Canon cameras is totally different than Nikon. According to Erik Sowder of ExpoImaging:
With Nikon you don't actually take a picture, instead you use their "preset" procedure which allows the user to sample "measure" the light without actually taking and recording an image to the card. The "preset" procedure precludes using any of the existing white balance preset options.
Since I am a Canon shooter, this article will focus on the Canon procedures, but the overall concepts and improvements offered by the ExpoDisc should be similar for any camera platform.
What about Auto White Balance (AWB)?
Auto White Balance on my Canon camera is pretty good. In fact it was so good, that I saw little reason to use anything else most of the time. I like the results it produced right out of the camera, so I saw little point in using anything else. On Nikon systems, I found the Auto White Balancing to be a little too blue for my tastes, but Nikon guys usually say Canon’s are a little too warm for their tastes so to each his own.
Anyway, the one place where both fail miserably is indoors where tungsten lights cast a nasty orange tint over everything on your image. It’s easy to correct in Lightroom if you are shooting RAW images, but what if you didn’t need to do that extra step? Wouldn’t that save some time, especially when processing a large bunch of photos? What if you are shooting in JPEG where you can’t change the white balance, wouldn’t it have been great to have all those shots properly white balanced? What if you are shooting in video and your basic editing software doesn’t support white balance changes? Wouldn’t it suck to have those images of your child forever with that ugly orange tint on them? Auto White Balance is good, but it’s not foolproof.
ExpoDisc vs Gray Card vs AWB
The following images were all taken with a Canon 5D Mark II using Auto White Balance (AWB) when capturing the white balance image, and the camera was set to Custom white balance mode using the white balance image when creating the respective photographs. The images you see are the original RAW (CR2) images converted to JPEG (minimal compression – 10) in Lightroom 2.5 with no additional processing. All shots were taken with the 77mm filter thread 24-105mm lens at f/4.0 and ISO 100 at 0.5 seconds on a tripod using a 2 second timer shutter release. All white balancing devices were held as far away as possible from the lens to fill the frame (the 82mm ExpoDisc must actually touch the end of the lens filter area).
The examples begin with what your camera would normal give you (this shot was taken under tungsten light at night, indoors) if you used AWB, and then it goes through examples using a ExpoDisc, a 18% Gray Card, and a Microfiber Cleaning Cloth / 18% Gray Card product. You may click the images to see a larger version, or to save them locally for further analysis.
Original Photograph – Auto White Balance (AWB)
The results for the images might be harder for some to see, but if your monitor is calibrated at least fairly well you should see that the ExpoDisc image has the most pure white and overall cleanest image of the set. The 4x5" Delta 18% Gray Card has the worst result as it appears to have a green tint, and the cleaning cloth 18% gray card microfiber does a reasonable job but still has a slight off-color tint. All differ from the orange/yellow cast of the in-camera result.
In my opinion the ExpoDisc produces the cleanest results, but I like a little warmth in my photos in post-processing I’d probably add a little warmth back to the final result (which can actually be done automatically in-camera on select camera bodies). Here’s additional great before and after white balancing examples found on ExpoImaging’s web site. I encourage you to check them out.
White Balancing and Video
In what is certain to be the most boring and lame video you’ll see in all of 2009, I proudly present my masterpiece video that quickly shows you the before and after results of white balancing using the ExpoDisc on a video:
Cool, huh? Sorry folks, it was 3:00 AM and I wasn’t able to whip up some cool video footage in time for the release of this review. You should get the point though that the ExpoDisc made a HUGE difference and applying the custom white balance was identical to what you do for the still images. If you are moving into the world of DSLR Videography, then you can improve the quality of your videos (especially indoors) using this one improvement alone. Even this crappy video taken at ISO 6400 with Canon 7D, at least shows some color quality improvements (even if it is a bit over exposed such that the black paper background now renders as gray).
Serious Videographers will be happy to know there is special version of the ExpoDisc designed specifically for high end video cameras.
White Balance and Metering Challenges
While ExpoDisc is great at setting a white balance reference point, there’s several problems you may still face that will require some post-processing help. For example, you might be shooting a flash which emits white light into a room lit with tungsten (household bulbs) light, so you have two colors introduced into the scene. White balancing for one, doesn’t necessarily help the area impacted by the other color so your only feasible solution is to use an orange gel on your flash to get one tone going on in the whole scene. A full discussion of how to accomplish this in this scenario or or in more complex scenarios outdoors (i.e., a building lit with tungsten light against a moonlit sky; street lights and house lights; etc…) is beyond the scope of this article, but you get the idea here. White balance is most effective when dealing with one tone across the entire image is incorrect, so that a reference point may be used to remove that tone and return everything to a proper color.
Having a correct white balance is also just part of the challenge in photography as your camera’s light meter will also look to expose the image to an 18% gray which may not result in a faithful reproduction of your image. This is especially common in black objects and snow, even if when you are perfectly white balanced. In the case of black objects, you might find that they tend to look a little faded on perfectly white balanced images. In the case of things like snow, you might find that it feels a bit gray instead of a nice bright white. For these, and other scenarios (like a cloudy day where white balance results in the drab reality) you might find that you’ll have to apply different techniques to get the best results in camera. This may include, but is not limited to, decreasing your exposure a stop (or –1 EV exposure compensation) to make dark objects (blacks) darker, increasing your exposure (+1 EV) to make bright objects like snow brighter.
The point here, is that products like ExpoDisc are a tool, but not a magic bullet. You may find that a cloudy day benefits from the Cloudy white balance (or even Auto White Balance) setting on your camera, much more than a properly white balanced image. You might choose to apply a creative white balance such as tungsten on a twilight evening shot to make the sky look more blue than it was in reality. Joe McNally has some great examples in his books The Moment It Clicks and The Hot Shoe Diaries on how to make creative uses of the white balancing system features built into your camera to express your artistic intent at capture time to avoid post-processing hassles.
Conclusion
After having the ExpoDisc for about a month, I find myself using it about 90% of the time before I shoot. Sometimes, I’ll look at the custom white balanced test image versus the Auto White Balance (AWB) test image and choose to go with the AWB image for artistic reasons (when shooting RAW only). However, for video or when shooting JPEG (or in my case RAW+JPEG) I always go with the custom white balanced version as I’ve yet to find a real-world scenario for the subjects I shoot where that wasn’t a good starting point down the road.
I think the price is a tough pill to swallow for some, but I’d say that some of its value can be recouped in time saved in post-processing (especially if you do video or JPEG only). You can also help spread out the cost by getting one large enough to fit your largest lens (the diameter of the front of your lens – not focal length mm). For example, most of my lenses use a 77mm filter, but my 16-35mm uses a 82mm filter size. As a result, I got a 82mm ExpoDisc and just hold it in front of all my other lenses, so this one ExpoDisc serves all of my needs.
I’d say that if you can’t absorb the cost now then add it to your wish list (or Christmas list – it’s a great gift). I think it is something that you’ll really enjoy once you get around to getting one, but in the meantime make sure you at least have a decent gray card and start forming good habits by using it. Remember, just owning one and/or carrying it in your bag isn’t enough!
Special Offer
Save 15% on all ExpoImaging Store products like the ExpoDisc or RayFlash when you enter ronmart09 in the “Enter Redeem Code” box and click Redeem in the ExpoImaging Store’s shopping cart as shown above.
REMEMBER when ordering, that you should get the largest size you’ll then you’ll realistically need. My recommendation for Canon shooters is to not get one smaller than 82mm, because if you ever shoot with the 16-35mm lens you’ll have to own it, and you’ll want a ExpoDisc that works with it. I’d never, no matter what brand you shoot with, get one less than 77mm (unless you can afford one for every filter size you have). You also don’t need to worry about step up/down rings as you can simply hold this in front of your lens as needed (be sure to keep your fingers out of the way <g>).
But I found this cheaper alternative on eBay, isn’t it the same thing?
No, there’s a science to this and few take the process of white balancing more seriously than ExpoImaging. In fact, you even get a card with hand written calibration values for your disc that were tested on a transmission color densitometer. This provides peace of mind that your unit has been tested to be accurate and within the specs required to produce accurate results. Before buying that similar looking disc elsewhere, find out if they’ll be including transmission color densitometer values with your unit so you can ensure it is going to actually do the job you are paying money for it to do – produce accurate results!
What about ExpoCap?
Great question – I asked the same thing to ExpoImaging as I thought the idea of just having my disc as a lens cap was a brilliant one. The short answer here is that the ExpoCap has been discontinued so if you want one, get it now as they will only exist while current supplies last (and you’ll notice popular sizes are forever out of stock). ExpoCap was very good, but not as accurate as ExpoDisc and the cost of making the cap was on the rise so the decision was made to discontinue it rather than having two products that were similarly priced with one (ExpoDisc) being substantially better than the other. If you have one, great – there’s no need to replace it, but if you are a first time buyer then go for the ExpoDisc – it’s the better long-term solution.
Disclosure
I was provided an evaluation copy of the ExpoDisc for this review and I will earn a commission when you use my discount code (thanks for supporting the blog).



























































